Mieszkamy w szarej, niepięknej kamienicy, centralnie naprzeciw wejścia do szpitala. Na Woli są też nowe osiedla z tarasami na dachu i grodzonymi terenami rekreacyjnymi, ale nam trafiło się to. Nieremontowana (powyżej parteru) klatka schodowa i tylne podwórko z dziką trawą i gołębiami. Jednak można tu znaleźć miejsca, które pozytywnie zaskakują - trzeba tylko chcieć je znaleźć.
W rocznicę wybuchu powstania poszliśmy na koncert na wspomnianym już skwerku Sierpnia 44 i przy tej okazji dowiedzieliśmy się, że przy Wolskim Centrum Kultury funkcjonuje Klubokawiarnia Sąsiedzka. Bardzo miłe miejsce, z ogrodem, w sezonie letnim basenem nawet, przytulnymi kanapami, grami i książkami, kawą i herbatą. Akurat poszliśmy, jak już zamykali, ale pewnie jeszcze wrócimy. A tuż za rogiem? Kawiarnia z małą galerią sztuki, o której dowiedzieliśmy się tylko dlatego, że było gorąco (czyli zamówiliśmy wiatrak elektryczny na Allegro i z jakiegoś powodu to miejsce wyskoczyło mi jako najbliższy punkt odbioru przesyłki).
Teraz już nie jest gorąco. Niebo zarówno w stronę Śródmieścia, jak i Bemowa jest czarne, gdy czekam rano na tramwaj. Skończy się błądzenie po osiedlu w poszukiwaniu śladów przeszłości. Aperol na balkonie został zastąpiony przez kubek grzanego wina pod kocem. Oba z plasterkiem pomarańczy. Obserwujemy samochody zaparkowane wzdłuż ulicy, bo obecnie to wybraliśmy jako uświadomiony element rzeczywistości. Jesteśmy podekscytowani, gdy widzimy Mini Coopera obok Renaulta Megane, bo wahamy się pomiędzy tymi dwoma modelami.
Sezon piknikowy przemienił się w sezon szukania przytulności. Trzymajcie się ciepło.
[ENGLISH]
[ALERT: bittersweet content]
What do you see when you walk down the street you know so well?
What elements of reality reach your consciousness and what are automatically filtered and rejected by your brain?
One thing is what you notice in your surroundings. If you are thinking about buying a new bag, you will half-consciously observe what bags do other people around you carry - in the street, on a tram and in the shop.
Second thing is your knowledge about the place. Which commemorative plaques and monuments do you pay attention to? Do you, at all? Do you ask yourself why there is an old tenement house here, a new block of apartments or an empty space?
Objectively, reality is the same for everyone. Any example, Wolska street in Warsaw Wola. A witness of my dailty trips to work and back.
Remarkably unremarkable name, both of the street and the district. Tram stop between two street lanes. When seasons are changing, before six in the morning, you will see two different colors of the sky: light blue-pink looking towards Śródmieście and dark black towards Bemowo. The sun rises and sets regardless of our little daily stories, only the spot in the horizon and the hour would change.
As a child, you go to the museums sometimes. School trips, local events, family holidays. Unless there are very interactive exhibitions, you don't care about it at all. You barely notice the writings on the walls and memorials, or you don't notice them at all. When dad tells you that history is interesting, you have no idea how it is possible - thinking about processions of kings in your history books or dates of battles fought no one knows what for.
When you are at school and knowledge is shoved under your nose, you defend against it with your hands and feet.
It's been two years since I moved to Wola.
During my five years of studying, I never felt any special connection with Warsaw and don't ask me why. Maybe out of spite (everyone wants to be from a big city, and I do not). Maybe because of daily commuting. But now, whether like it or not, it became sort of home for me.
I sort of have a big collection of places I can call "sort of home". Silesia, where I was born. Lubliniec, where I grew up. Skierniewice, where I became adult. Malta, where I became independent. Japan, where I gained self-confidence and perspective. I wouldn't be the person that I am right now without any of these places.
It works both ways. None of the places would be what they are without people living in them. What would Wola be if it weren't for the war?
After moving to Warsaw I started going on guided walks. These types of walks in which you cover the distance of a hundred meters in three hours but you get to know the story of every stone, every building and every piece of lawn. Suddenly it turned out that dad was right: history is interesting.
So yes, I needed to walk streets of Wola for almost two years to fully realise how many hidden wounds are here. Each Tchork cross is a scar from these wounds. They are not obtrusive, if you don't feel like it, you won't notice them.
A border village near Warsaw; the electoral field where 10 Polish kings were chosen; a point of resistance against enemies and invaders from each side: in Kościuszko Uprising, November Uprising, and the beginning of Second World War. Intensively developing industrial area before and after the war. Background for Polish TV series Miodowe Lata (Honey years).
A victim of one of most tragic massacre in history of Poland, in which 50 000 innocent people were murdered within three days.
How is it possible that an average Polish person - living in Warsaw even maybe - doesn't know about it at all? The more I read about August 44 in Wola, the more it shocks me. Lack of education or collective denial? Looking at the size of trauma, maybe the second one.
I am not writing this to dwell on war crimes. If someone is interested in it, I recommend reading Rzeź Woli. Zbrodnia nierozliczona or going to the Warsaw Uprising Museum (free admission of Mondays). Or going for a gloomy walk along Wolska and Górczewska street and reading what is writtend under the stone crosses. I'm not writing this to depress anyone or change your perception of places (like I did to myself). Because now when I see Sowiński Park or the rail viaduct at Górczewska, I imagine piles of bodies and streets flowing with blood 79 years ago. It is not fun but had one important result.
I am writing this to share my sense of joy and gratitude that we live in safe place in times of freedom - at least for now, at least in this piece of Earth. That in the summer we can drink beer on the balcony looking at cars and buses standing at traffic lights. That we can play ping pong and swing on the hammock in the Sierpnia 44 Square. The minimum respect for the past that we can show is to check why this square is named Sierpnia 44 and why there is a Freedom bus stop in the middle of the lawn.
We currently live in a gray not beautiful tenement house, just opposite the hospital entrance. There are new fancy apartment neighborhoods in Wola as well, with roof gardens and fenced recreational areas, but we ended up here. Unrenovated staircase (above ground floor) and backyard with pigeons and wild grass. However, even here you can find hidden gems that will surprise you - if only you have enough curiosity to search for them.
On the anniversary of the outbreak of Warsaw Uprising, we went to a concert in the mentioned Sierpnia 44 square. On this occassion we learned that there is a culture centre in Wola, just one street away from our house, and they have Neighbor Cafe with friendly people, cozy sofas books, board games and all range of activities, including herb garden and swimming pool in the summer season. And just around the corner? Another Cafe with small art gallery inside. We found this one only because one day we felt hot and ordered electric fan from Allegro, and somehow this was the nearest pick up point.
Now it's not hot any more. The sky both towards Śródmieście and Bemowo is black when I am waiting for the tram in the morning. There will be no more random wandering around the city, looking for traces of the past. Aperol on the balcony is replaced by a mug of hot wine under the blanket. Both of them with slice of orange.
We are observing cars parked along the street because this is where we direct our attention now. We're excited if we seen Mini Cooper next to Renault Megane because we are hesitating between those two models.
Picnic season has transformed into the season of looking for coziness. Hold yourself tight.
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